(* Skimmed over means milk heated long enough to form
a skin on top. Also note that this method for frothed milk provides
a lite (1/4" (6mm) layer of froth similar to that done in
Florence. This does not provide the multi-inch (multi cm) froth
you get in the USA)
Credentials: I have been making espresso since 1973 when my wife
and I traveled in Europe for 14 months in a Volkswagen camping
van. We believe the best Cappuccino in the world is available
in Florence. (see note below on lost art even there now) That
is my model.
Now some details.
THE WATER: Your drinking water
may be good most of the time, but gets back flushed now and then.
If it tastes bad it will make bad coffee. I use tap water most
of the time, though we have generally good tap water.
THE COFFEE: I believe you must have a dark bean, but not
too black. (Starbucks Espresso, Pete's and French Roast tend to
be too dark). If it is too black you will lose the smooth tasty
finish at the back of the coffee swallow. A black bean will provide
good front taste, but no creamy finish. The Italian espresso bean
is best for this mix of brown and darker bean. Try several before
settling. Consistent bean and water are essential to repeat performances.
(I use Black Bear Florentine Espresso from Tuftonboro New Hampshire,
but several others will do) There are good decaf's too.
Grind the coffee as fine as you have ever seen it ground, like
fine sand. I have a Braun flow-through type of grinder I set to
4. It goes down to 1. The chopping kind of grinder is ok too,
just hold the lid down until it sounds fine, a smooth fine sand
sound on the lid. The particle size will be about the size of
salt.
The exact country the bean comes from does not matter as much
with beans roasted espresso dark since country variation is more
subtle and shows up most in light brown beans.
THE MAKER: Just buy one of those three section aluminum
pots which have water in the bottom chamber, coffee in the middle,
and hold the finished espresso in the top. The pot is shaped like
an hour-glass (see picture at top of page). They will require
tight 'screwing' the first few times to keep the pressure seal
tight. It is the steam pressure which forces the water through
the coffee. I use what is called a 9-cup model which for me makes
normally 3 cups if filled half way which is what I do to keep
the espresso strong. There are smaller and larger makers. I can
get 6 cups of strong enough for most cappuccino drinkers from
the same pot when more guests are present.
THE PACK
(new!) Packing the coffee is another of the critical steps to obtain consistently good espresso. I only recently learned this (2005) after a second trip to Italy. Use a tamper or similar circular based tool that just fits the coffee basket diameter. I use a 225 cc vitamin C container. By pressing down with moderate pressure for a man and slightly heavy for a woman you will see the coffee pack down about .25 inches or more from the top of the basket lip. Twist as you press to smooth out the packing of the grounds.
2013
The density of the coffee puck determines the richness of the espresso and, to some extent, its bitterness. It is therefor one of the main elements that you must master to make strong, clean tasting espresso. It can also get a bit complicated and here's what I understand about it now late in my life of making espresso:
COFFEE PUCK-ground granular fineness and packing pressure from using a tamper have a big effect on how easy it is for heated water to flow through the coffee-puck. To allow the coffee-puck to control the espresso you have to leave enough room above it (approx 2-3mm) to allow it to expand without hitting the filter plate above it, otherwise the expansion and filter plate determine coffee puck compaction.
So do some experiments with coffee compacting pressures for a specific grind granularity(different for each coffee bean and grind fineness) to determine which pressure is the maximum you can apply and still have the pressure relief valve not let pressure out because the puck is too dense. Generally this is the puck density you wish to achieve for maximum richness and espresso density without bitterness. Bitterness can also increase as a result of the roast of coffee and heating too fast forcing the hot water up too abruptly.
THE HEAT: Put milk in a sauce pan (I use half half&half
and half 2%) and heat at medium till skimmed-over. Heat espresso
at same time at high heat till it starts flowing, visible with
lid up, then turn to medium. or lower and let flow smoothly into
upper chamber until the lovely golden cream foam comes out at
the end of the cycle. Turn heat off because the water is gone
from lower chamber and damage to the gasket can occur if left
on.
THE CUP AND THE POUR: Preheat cup in microwave. Use half
teaspoon of sugar in cup first then add espresso to about 1/3
to 1/2 cup height, toss milk in blender, blend on high (watch
lid doesn't fly off) (use glass blender, plastic cracks after
a while) and tap blender, milk and all, on counter to release
large bubbles. Pour with sloshing motion to get foam out. ( Instead
of heating on the stove I now heat in the microwave for about
a minute. Black and Deckar make a cheap little espresso maker
from which i use only the little foamer, a glass beaker and french
press like thing that when pumped foams the mild.)
